Draughts (air leaks) cause both heat loss from inside a house and cold air to blow in from the outside.
Draught proofing is one of the cheapest and most efficient ways to save energy in any type of building, from a flat to a mansion – but it’s often overlooked.
Draughts can occur in many ways, including:
• gaps around poorly fitting doors and windows
• gaps around floorboards, walls and skirting boards
• cracks in walls
• through exhaust fans and vents
• doors and windows left open
• through cat or dog flaps
• through manholes or attic ladder hatches
Start off with the cheapest options - weatherstripping external doors and windows or sealing gaps in floorboards and skirting boards. Reduce the large draughting effect of chimneys with a chimney balloon.
?? The Questions ??
Can I draught proof my home myself?
Usually, yes – if you’re happy carrying out simple DIY tasks, draught proofing will be no problem. However, some types of draught proofing will require a tradesperson to complete the job - eg. window replacements
How much does draught proofing cost?
Solutions can be expensive such as replacing windows or repairing outside walls to cost effective methods such as weather strips, door snakes or closing dampers on chimney flues. For example, a tube of silicon can cost as low as $2.50, $8.95 for an eco-seal, $20 for a downlight cover and into the hundreds and thousands to replace windows.
Draught proofing will pay for itself within a few years because you’ll save money on your heating and cooling bills.
The benefits of draught proofing
Draught proofing saves you money – and makes your home snug and pleasant.
Draught-free homes are comfortable at lower temperatures – so you’ll be able to turn down your thermostat. This will save you more money.
Windows
For windows that open, buy draught-proofing strips to stick around the window frame. These fill the gap between the window and the frame. Here are There are 2 main types:
Self-adhesive foam strips – the cheapest option, and easy to install, however may not last as long as other methods.
Metal or plastic strips with brushes or wipers attached – these are long-lasting, but cost a little more.
Make sure your strip is the right size to fill the gap in your window. If the strip is too big it will get compressed and damaged and you may not be able to close the window. If it's too small there will still be a gap.
For sliding sash windows it's best to fit brush strips or consult a professional. Foam strips do not work well.
For windows that don't open you can use a silicon sealant.
Doors
Draught proofing for external doors can save a lot of heat and will only cost you a few dollars.
There are 2 main things to think about:
1. the gap at the bottom – use a brush or hinged flap draught excluder
2. gaps around the edges – use eco-seal
Internal doors need draught proofing if they lead to a room you don’t normally heat, like your spare room or kitchen. You should keep doors to unheated rooms closed as much as possible to stop the cold air from moving into the rest of the house. If there is a big gap at the bottom of the door then use a brush strip seal or a door sausage.
Internal doors between two heated rooms don’t need draught proofing – it’s ok to let warm air circulate between different rooms.
Chimneys and fireplaces
If you don’t use your fireplace, your chimney is probably a big source of unnecessary draughts. There are 2 main ways to draught proof a chimney:
1. fit a cap over the chimney pot – this might be better done by a professional
2. buy a chimney balloon – an inflatable cushion which blocks up the chimney
Remember to remove the draught proofing if you decide to light a fire!
Floorboards and skirting boards
You can block cracks using filler that you squirt into the gap.
Floorboards and skirting boards often contract, expand or move slightly with everyday use, so you should use a filler that can tolerate movement – these are usually silicon-based/
Fillers block gaps permanently so be careful when you apply them and wipe off any excess or mess with a damp cloth before it dries. Fillers may break down over time, but can easily be re-applied.
Fillers come in many different colours, and for indoor and outdoor use.
Man-hole or Attic/Loft hatches
Draught proofing your man-hole or attic/loft hatch is essential, since hot air rises and is lost into the cold space in the loft. Cold air can also blow in through the gaps around the hatch.
Hatches can be draught proofed by using strip insulation, like you would on a door.
Pipework
You can fill small gaps around pipework with silicon fillers, similar to the fillers used for skirting boards and floorboards.
Larger gaps should be filled with expanding polyurethane foam. The foam can be sprayed into the gap. As it dries it will expand and fill the hole, then set hard.
Exhaust fans
Losing heat through a kichen or bathroom ceiling exhaust fan is common. Purchase a DraffStoppa to place ober the exhuast fan/. Cheap and effecitive.
Draughts and ventilation – what’s the difference?
Draught proofing works by blocking any gaps where unwanted air enters the house – but every home needs some fresh air. It’s important to know the difference between proper ventilation and unwanted draughts.
What is ventilation?
What are draughts?
What kinds of ventilation are there?
What kinds of draughts are there?
Which rooms don’t need draught proofing?
What is ventilation?
Ventilation is a way of keeping the air in your home fresh, dry and healthy. Air should move around your different rooms, and should be slowly exchanged with fresh air from outside. This stops the build up of damp and stale air.
Homes should be fitted with vents which allow the right amount of air to flow into and out of the house.
What are draughts?
Draughts are like ventilation in some ways – both let fresh air into your home. But draughts are uncontrolled. They let in too much cold air and waste too much heat.
Draughts occur where there are accidental gaps in the construction of your home, or if you leave doors, windows, keyholes or letterboxes open or uncovered.
What kinds of ventilation are there?
There are several different types of controlled ventilation which help keep your home healthy. You should not block up any of these without consulting a professional.
• extractor fans – these extract damp air quickly in rooms where lots of moisture is produced (kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms)
• under-floor grills – these help keep wooden beams dry
• wall vents – these let small amounts of fresh air into rooms
• trickle vents – modern windows often have small vents above them to let fresh air trickle in
OHS note
Flueless gas heaters require adequate ventilation in the
room.
If you suspect that the flueless gas heater is being used, do
not suggest the use of a draught snake or draught excluder
or the filling in of wall vents. If in doubt the householder
should speak to a qualified gasfitter.
What kinds of draughts are there?
You’ll find draughts at any accidental gap in your home that leads outside. These are the most common places:
• windows
• doors
• loft hatches
• electrical fittings on walls and ceilings
• suspended floorboards
• pipework leading outside
• ceiling-to-wall joints
You should block most of these – but be careful in rooms that need good ventilation, such as bathrooms or kitchens.
Which rooms don’t need draught proofing?
You should be careful about draught proofing rooms that need good ventilation, including:
areas where there are open fires or open flues – It is essential that areas like this have adequate ventilation.
rooms where a lot of moisture is produced, such as the kitchen, bathroom or utility room. Good ventilation helps reduce condensation and damp.